Naboisho Conservancy – Day 2 on safari

My second day in Naboisho started with another beautiful sunrise but also with fog in the dells, this time all alone on the safari vehicle.

There is hardly anything as magic as the sun rising over the African Savannah
Mist over the landscape

First sighting were two male lions from Molibany pride, majestic.

Still a bit tired…
What a hearty yawn
OK, end of the show, I go into the bushes, hiding
The second male of the pride

We spent the rest of the morning game drive taking ourself time to watch elephants and giraffes.

Crashing the bushes…
Feeding on this all to thorny acacia trees, unbelievable
Fighting or cuddling?
Hey!!! This naughty zebra photobombed my giraffe picture
OK, I admit I adore this cute a bit to hm… chubby striped animals

.. And some more…

Cute or ugly? Officially they belong to the ugly five, I think they are cute…
Impalas running
Grants Gazelle
Grants Gazelle not to confuse with the much smaller
Thomson Gazelle
Thomson Gazelle
Female Thommy
Thomson Gazelle
OK, to much cuteness isn’t good, let’s see one of the ugly five, the Gnu
Gnu or also Wildebeest
Hyenas
Cute or ugly? Officially the belong to the ugly five but I think they’re cute…
Well, maybe not cute in any pose…
Tawny eagle, majestic – no doubt here…
Bat eared foxes, defenitly cute, the first time I’ve seen them during daylight

Visitors at lunch time…

This cute rock hyrax lives in Eagle View Camp, they still try to convince me, it’s closely related to the elephant… Hm…?
OK I admit, this was our breakfast table not luch

For the afternoon I unfortunately got to say goodbye to my guide Edward who took some time off to visit his family, therefore we got a new guide Dickson and three more people on the vehicle. All of then for the first time on safari for which I really envy them. Safari is always exciting but the very first one is just magic and newbies tend to appreciate any sighting not only the very special and rare ones. The downside was that our new guide drove me almost crazy with giving information I’ve already heard dozens of times. I wouldn’t mind so much, cuz information is important, if he hadn’t chosen a spot just outside of the camp with no wildlife around, why not stop in a place with one of these beautifully mixed herds of zebras, gnus, Thompsons and Impalas and lecture us there for this half an hour?

Anyway, we got quickly lucky and found a schakal which was feeding on a baby impala, a fascinating sighting but also a bit sad because the mother was still nearby looking for her young.

The rest of the afternoon was rather quiet with a long drive trough Whistleblow thorn bushes with no wildlife around at all.

Strangely enough our guide was actually looking for a leopard… Luckily we suddenly spotted Molybany pride with its two lionesses and their eight cubs of different ages on a Rocky hill. Unfortunately they were neither in the mood to hunt nor to play and also a bit to far away, whish makes watching lions surprisingly boring.

Yep, not in the mood for hunting or playing…

We therefore proceeded to a safe place to take a sundowner and watch the beautiful sunset.

Just after returning to the camp a fierce thunder storm drove over the savannah and destroid my hopes of a refreshing drink at the camp fire this night.

Naboisho Conservancy – Day 3 on safari – Elephant fight and cats afternoon

Well, in the meantime I’ve already left the Mara and am just a bit behind writing my daybook. Doesn’t matter, the safari was just to busy to write as well as my brain with processing all the experiences.

Short in short, despite seeing all the big cats in the afternoon on one single game drive my personal favorit of this magnificent day were the elephants with their play fight, very unique and memorable.

The day started of with an unlucky change of tyre which cost us the usualy magnificent colors of the heaven just before sunrise…

The lions we saw attempted to hunt but finally didn’t due to zebras giving alarm.

We therefore focused on seeing other things

Everyone always admires the fotos of a lion or a leopard, but who has ever tried to take a picture of a mungoe will admire this one, has cost me just a bit of patience
Topi with calf
Eland
Thomson gazelle

until we crossed the path of this two elephants drinking water and play fight, I could have watched them all day.

This was a moment to reverse…
Breakfast for four
Just saying hi 😁
This is my personal typical picture of Africa

We were already on the way back to camp for lunch when we spotted several vehicle o nthe other side of the plains – a leopard. Nolari again, hiding in thick bushes, her prey up, in a tree nearby. Unfortunately some cows with their very young Massai shepperd were closeby and on one hand endangered on the other putting pressure on this all to elusive cat and she disappeared I to thicker bushes taking her cub of whish we’ve only seen a flicking tail with her.

Alert by the hyena sniffing around
On the run…
And gone…
Tree with prey
Killed impala

Well, what shall I write about an afternoon like this, it was an absolute dream for every cat lover. Just outside of the camp we encountered the lions of Ilkisiusiu again.

All a bit sleepy and
Followed by a big yawn

First of all we drove back to Nolari, hoping to catch her climbing the tree, but with all the hyenas sniffing around the three with her prey on it, she wasn’t in the mood to climb.

No more pictures please
Hyena sniffing at the tree with the prey on it
Disappearing

In consens with all guests on the vehicle we decided to drive on and see what the drive had ready for us. And soon Dickson Losos eyes spotted a moving Cheetah. Unfortunately I’ve missed to photograph her moving but got her in the beautiful soft sunset light laying down. We all hoped to see her hunting, but with a hyena literally circling her, she refrained.

Kijana

In an again democratic voting we all decided to try our luck again with the leopard, but the hyenas have chased her into the bushes and we finished off this exciting day wit a beautiful sunset and some storytelling at the campfire.

Byebye Naboisho – hello Diani Beach

It’s time for a last game drive and then time to say goodbye to my beloved Masai Mara.

Olormorijo pride
OK, show’s over…
Lilac breasted roller
Succling

A special thank you goes to all the staff of Basecamp Explorer Eagle View which made my stay in the Mara so memorable. And another one to the man who is responsible for all the amazing food we got to enjoy here.

Chef Benson proudly with some of his books which I will take home as souvenirs for some friends

Chef Benson, an amazing cook with a very inspiring story which he allowed me to share. Benson is a Massai as all staff here and has grown up in the region. His career in tourism started of as an Askari (security man), but his interest onto cooking brought him into kitchen, first for cleaning duties, then peeling and cutting vegetables but son started to cook himself. By now this successful Maasai has become a fully educated chef and has been trained in Italy, Zürich and Oslo. His food is great but moreso is his intention to give something back to the community. To do so he’s written a cook book and all proceeds from the sale go into education of young Maasai who get a chance to attend an 18 month training to become a chef themselfs. Benson has become a dear friend and I very much admire his self made success and his intention to give other people a chance to do the same by investing into their education.

Breakfast with a view and home made granola❤️. Benson, I need this recipe!
Chicken in coconut
Fresh salad, all grown in the garden next to Eagle View
Vegetable fritata, honestly one of the best dishes I’ve ever eaten at Eagle View, everyone around was crazy about it
Lovely decorated soup

A long 2.5 hours flight brought me down to the coast.

Typical Airstrip in the Mara with safari vehicles waiting for their arriving or leaving guests
Wetlands in Amboselli

Australia – we’re coming

Aktueller Zustand: 58 Stunden ohne Bett, Füsse wie rohe Fleischklümpchen, Augen wie Zombies und komplett tot aber happy!

Was soll ich sagen, als wir diese Australien Reise vor rund einem halben Jahr geplant hatten, waren wir nach der ganzen Coronalockdownphase hungrig nach Menschen und urbanen Gegenden, deshalb der Entscheid, von Melbourne über die Great Ocean Road nach Adelaide zu reisen, idealerweise bevor die Massen aus Asien wieder unterwegs sind. 780km in 3 Wochen bedeuten viel viel Zeit. Tja, was soll ich sagen, Wettergott Petrus ist wohl kein Traveller, anders können wir uns die aktuellen Wetterbrichte aus Victoria und Südaustralien mit Flood Warnings nicht erklären. Jetzt heisst es ganz nach Aussi Credi, Ruhe bewahren, Alternativroute planen, Kreditkartenlimite erhöhen, Gummistiefel oder besser Gummiboot eingepackt und sich vom Gedanken an faule Strand Tage verabschieden.

Was soll ich sagen, nach guten 40 Stunden Reise empfängt und Australien mit schönstem Sonnenschein und blauem Himmel!

Der Anblick unseres Hostels lässt uns auf den ersten Blick beinahe umkehren, Das habe ich gebucht? Echt jetzt?

Egal, einchecken können wir sowieso noch nicht, also heisst es noch in stinkigen Reiseklamotten losmarschieren Richtung Coffee. Auch hier erfüllt Australien alle Erwartungen, der Espresso ist schlichtweg nicht trinkbar. Wären die Leute hier nicht so freundlich, würde ich glatt einen Anschlag auf mein Leben vermuten, das Zeug schmeckt wie Kamelpisse…

Unser Ziel sind einerseits die tollen Murals in Fitzroy, andererseits bis Abends um 6 zu überleben und dann direkt tot ins Bett zu fallen. Zuerst suchen wir einige der uns bereits bekannten Highlights. Leider machen Vandalen nicht mal vor Kunstwerkenwie wie denen von Adnate halt…

Trotzdem, die Graffities sind in diesem Quartier ist der Hammer!

Und unser Hostel ist auf den zweiten Blick sogar ein richtiges Highlight mit toller Sicht auf Melbourne Skyline.

Aus irgendeinem Grund landen wir abends bei Steak und Bier in einem Pub und das mit 6pm I’m Bett hat auch nicht geklappt. 58 Stunden seit unserem letzten Betttouch ist es dann aber soweit und ich schwöre, ich laufe morgen keinen einzigen Schritt mehr. .. Aber zuerst noch träume ich etwas von unserem heutigen Highlight, dem höchsten Graffiti der südlichen Hemisphäre!

Australia – Street Art in Melbourne

Während in Fitzroy vor allem schöne Einzelkunstwerke zu finden sind, freuen wir uns im Stadtzentrum von Melbourne vor allem auf die versifften Gassen oder besser „Lanes“ natürlich. Leider sind v.a. einige der uns bekannten und wohl leider auch allgemein bekannten Lanes mehrheitlich nur noch Schmiereien.

Hoiser Lane

Maelu by Adnate
Sugar Glider by Dvate
OK, diese Lady von Adnate ist im Chinese Quarter
Was soll ich sagen, rubbish zu rubbish
And once motäre rubbish zu rubbish

AC/DC Lane und Duck Place

Ehre wem Ehre gebührt – Malcolm Young

Aber einzelne Highlights lassen sich trotzdem immer wieder finden, wie z. B. Blender oder Collins Lane.

Queens Market
Vexta anf Lisa King at Loudon Place
Lisa King
Also wenn schon versiffte, dann richtig…
Alice im Wunderland

Und dann gibts noch die spezielleren Sachen…

Honestly said, we’ve darly ignored any traditional sightseeing in Melbourne in favor of street art and a drink with an old school friend at the Yarra River. But still, the mixture of old an new here in Melbourne is fantastic.

A bit of day planning
Breakfast at Mississipi Press

Australia – Philipp Island

Our car is gone…! Was our first thought after leaving the hostel. And indeed, the parking space was empty, our campervan towed away for good; an unfortunate combination of free parking on the public holiday yesterday and not getting up in time to pay this morning. Well, nothing new for us, so instead of finding ourself a nice coffee place for a hearty brekkie we started walking to find the lot where our car has been taken. On the way I at least got a nice brekkie, undrinkable Espresso no 6, some more Graffities and finally our car to head of direction Philipp Island.

Verbunden mit dem Festland  über eine Brücke ist Philipp Island einfach zu erreichen und das hübsche Städtchen Cowes der Mittelpunkt der Insel.

Erster Grosseinkauf

Nachts tanzt hier sozusagen der Bär, d.h. nach 7 p. m. wird die Restaurantsuche zur Herausforderung und die Pubs schliessen dann um halb 9… Trotz seeeeehr bescheidener Wettervorhersage haben wir kühle aber sonnige Tage erwischt, but still way to cold for a drink on the Campground, well at least if there weren’t some friendly Aussis who were welcoming us on their fire.

Actually Philipp Island is famous fot the little penguins, especially the penguin parade. However, we’ve seen pretty much all wildlife with exception of penguins. Starting with one of my favorites at Noobies a Echidna, some Cape Arten Geese including chicks, Black Swans, Löffelvogel, Lorikeet, Superb Fairy Wren, Galahs, a Kakaduu, a Wallaby and a rabbit on our campground, some baby possums and of course koalas.

Echidna

Geese

Huge mural by Dvate

Between all the wildlife we’ve enjoyed the rough coast at Noobies.

A walk along swan lake with loads of birds.

Royal Spoon Bill

Some lazy time at Smith Beach also included a walk to pyramid rock.

Walk to pyramid rock
Pyramid rock

The red rock beach.

And finally my beloved boyfriend decided to attend the circus of the penguin parade. What shall I say, since there are currently hardly any tourists on the island, our Campground has never hosted more than three parties over the last days

and of the usually 70 tour busses a day none appeared. Therefore he thought if ever than now… BIG mistake, ok, the penguins are cute, but sitting for an hour in rows with hundert (at least not thousands like usually) others is just not my thing… The penguins are out for fishing during daytime, come ashore after sunset, cross the beach and waddle up the paths to their nests, to cute to be truth, but….. Having always some Asian tourists hanging over your shoulder… OK, done that, lesson learnt… Sorry, no picks here, blue light harms the penguins.

However, Philipp Island is defently worth a visit, but not to see the parade like all the day tourists do, but rather to stay for some days and enjoy the island. Bring a jacket, it might be windy…

Australia – off towards Great Ocean Road (Surfers Coast)

Usually we prefer the Outback here in Australia, but with some Asian countries still locked for traveling we hope that the Great Ocean Road might for once not be crowded. Meaning we have to leave Philipp Island, drive via Mornington Peninsula and take the ferry

to the lovely colonial town Queenscliff.

With some stops along the shore

Lighthouse at Logsdale

we head to Torquay surfers paradise and

Therefore the surfers coast, first stop Winki Pop further on to Addis Point.

The Lighthouse in Aireys Inlet is just beautiful and most important, we got the first sweaty day!

Little Penguin

For the night we head deeper into Great Otway Nationalpark.

Markus was collecting some wood at the beach and I wondered, why he didn’t use the IKEA bag we’ve brought for this purpose. Well, he loaded a whole 3 meter log into our camper, what a laugh. After having an almost crash with a Kangaroo, luckily we were driving slowly, we’ve earned ourself a cold beer, a nice camp fire, perfect steaks and some wildlife. Finally we’ve arrived in Australia😀

First the work
Then the fire
Then the beer
And finally the steaks
Having a good scratch
Possum with a baby
I’ve got a new driver!

Anyway, recently we’re becoming bird lovers, especially during a walk along distillery creek, and no the distillery itself is closed…what a pitty… But all the flowers blooming here in spring are lovely, so is the not home cooked lunch, grins.

Kookaburra
Lunchbreak to rearrange travel plans.

Moggs Creek was a bit boring with exception of this beautiful Kookaboora.

Markus decided to throw my travel plan over board and sacrifice his beloved beach day in Lorne in favor of another night at Hammond Rd Campground with a campfire, it’s still to cold to sit outside at nighttime without the fire. Just upon arriving were our kangaroos again, even showing off his Joey. The possums didn’t show again, but the late evening was full of koala rutting calls up high in the trees.

Taking a sunbath
Showing off
Brünftiger Koala

Great Ocean Road – Lorne to Cape Otway

I admit, we only took the ocean road till this spot to take this famous pic and headed inland again to drive through the Great Otway Nationalpark towards Erskine Falls.

Last time we’ve seen Erskine Falls it wasn’t much more than just a dripping, this time after all the rains, it was stunning.

We’ve even tried to do the walk further towards Lorne, but with an expectation of over 20 river crossings over slippery rocks, we waived the idea in favor of an hour at the beach in Lorne, do our laundry and get a lazy hour at the beach. What shall I say, Australia is a pretty safe country, even your laundry is guarded.

Some Aussis told us, that the service in touristic institutions has dropped after covid because of staff shortage. Truth told we haven’t made this experience, moreso that the restaurants didn’t even open. Meaning tonight was the choice between Indian, Chineese or Italian food or of course do some self cooking. But Lorne was our planned spot for a two days rest, so that wasn’t an option…

Barramundi
Kormoran
Swinging Bridge
Lorne beach
View towards Split Lighthouse in Aireys Inlet
Our Campground
Mondfinsternis

Heutiger Plan waren ganze 45 km von Lorne bis Apollo Bay. Was soll ich sagen, wir haben glatte 12 bis Jamieson River geschafft… Irgendwo hatte ich was von Devils Elbow gelesen, weil wir den letztes Mal verpasst hatten, hat mir das keine Ruhe gelassen und wir wollten die vermeintlichen 4km rasch zurück fahren um den mitzunehmen. Tja, spektakulär ist anders, 4 km warens auch nicht und gekostet hat uns die doofe Tafel wegen Road Work glatt eine Stunde…

Gestern waren wir zu faul, also nehmen wir Teddys Lookout inklusive River Gorge Walk heute mit, einfach eindrücklich.

Um Lorne herum gibt es so viele Walks , nicht ganz einfach, den passenden auszuwählen, wir haben hin und her überlegt, ob wir den 2km Walk zu den Cora Lynn Cascades noch machen sollen oder nicht. Wir waren neugierig, also los geht’s. Oh Mann, habe ich das bereut, über 2.5 km downhill, tiefer Schlamm und an den Rückweg dürfen wir gar nicht denken, den hatte die „Walkübersicht“ auch irgendwie unterschlagen…

Matsch, grrr
Meh Matsch…
Zviel Matsch…

Die Cascades sind hübsch, aber ganz ehrlich gesagt die Anstrengung über den steilen, matschigen Weg nicht wirklich Wert..

Hinterher waren wir oder zumindest ich ziemlich auf der Schnauze, entsprechend habe ich meinen armen, geplagten Beinen den Walk zum Sheoak Waterfall erspart, mich mit meinem Buch und einem wohlverdienten, kalten Bierchen in den Schatten geknallt und mich darüber gewundert, dass Markus nach viiiiel zu kurzer Zeit zurück war, der arme Irre ist wegen schlechten Gewissens den ganzen Walk gerannt, zum Glück hatte ich noch keine Zeit, mein Bierchen zu leeren; schwupps und weg…

Wir sind dann nur noch die paar Meter zum Jamieson Creek gefahren und haben uns auf dem herrlich gelegenen Campground mit unschlagbarer Aussicht gemütlich eingerichtet.

Female King Parrot

Am Morgen gabs ein Selfie mit einem freundlichen Besucher und ein grosses Hallo mit Joey, danach bei stürmischem Wetter die ganzen tollen Aussichten, Buchten und Klippen entlang der Great Ocean Road. Zum düsteren Wetter passt auch das wilde Meer perfekt.

Apollo Bay war dann nicht sooo das Highlight, wegggewindet hat es uns auch beinahe, aber die von Aussis empfohlenen Fish&Chips am Pier waren toll.

Ich gebs ja zu, auch wir haben eigentlich wegen der bekannten Koalasichtungen in Kennett River einen Stop gerissen. Der Nature Walk am River entlang ist auch sehr schön, die Koalas sind aber entlang der Strasse zu finden, wo dann plötzlich auch diverse Tourbusse auftauchen, bisher hatten wir nicht einen gesehen, i.d.R. bestückt mit rund 50% Indern, 25 Chinesen und dem Rest ein westlicher Mix. Bei einem Kaffee die perfekte Unterhaltung.. .

Von dutzenden Tourgästen fotografiertes Koalaknäuel
Ähm, mein Brownie!!!

Danach nochmals einige tolle Buchten, bevor wir am Cape Otway ankommen.