Kategorie: Australien 2024

What a messy trip, all started off with changing the vacation date to an earlier time cuz I was fed up with the all to short dark winter days. Choosing Australia was a convenient thing, a place we know well and hiring a campervan makes travelling without a plan so easy we didn’t have to do any planning ahead. A week before the trip should start the weather forcast mentioned temperatures between 33 and 45 degrees for the south west, hence I packed tank tops and shorts, only to find ourselfs freezing and seeking for woolen plankets and sweaters to buy upon arrival cuz the temperatures have dropped in the mean time. Well, already the flight was… hm… shitty, starting with a delay of almost 3 hours is no fun when you have a connection with three hours time only… luckily Markus‘ charm brought us a new seat next to the exit and maybe a hot date in Dubai the pilot to speed and make up some time. Finally, we managed not only catch our flight but even had time for a coffee…(Remark, bring your own water bottle if you want to bring water on board in Dubai)

The first glimpse at our hotel „The Adnate“ was as fascinatung as expected. Being one of my favorite street art artist he constructed not only the massive mural with the three faces at the facade of the building but also the once in the entrance to the parking and some more in the lobby of the hotel, love it.

Honestly, Perth isn’t a famous hotspot for street art yet. But if you walk around with open eyes, there’s always something to see

But there’s more to Perth than just street art. Unfortunately many of the old beautiful colonial buildings have disappeared since the last time we’ve been here. Still some jewels remain and provide a charming contrast to the modern buildings.

Our original plan was to lazily drive south along the East Coast via Freemantle till as far as we manage. And plans are there to waive them, meaning I’ve seen some pictures of beaches around Esperance, a small town in the south where they say that the most beautiful beach of Australis is to be found. Well, let’s try to find it.

It took Markus more than three hours to pick up our campervan, an unusually huge thing… After a healthy brekki

we’re off towards Hyden and the Wave Rock. We’ve already considered a visit at Wave Rock 22 years ago during our first trip in Western Australia, but due to the remote location and waste of time we decided against it and took now the opportunity to change that and are glad about. It’s a remarkble rock formation.

It’s a pitty we didn’t have more time to do some more walks and explore the area some more, cuz already the climb up the wave rock offers a stunning view over the landscape.

And the drive there was full of laughter cuz our lovely car starts to ’schimpf‘ with Markus as soon as he drives to fast… You should have heard him complaining and swearing, I vowe, it was my personal highlight of the drive. Those two, Markus and our rolling Motzlise won’t become lovers anymore…

I personally love this barren outback roads. This one unfortunately didn’t provide the much beloved real colour but the golden one of dry grass and harvested wheat.

Can you imaging how tasty this well earned beers after a full day of driving about 800 km taste?

We actually wanted to slowly drive south from Perth as far as we get. However, ahead of our trip I read something about Esperance and Lucky Beach being the most beautiful beach in Australia and for some reason I had the impression, we need to see it! Said and done, despite all reasoning with ourselfs that this would make the trip to long and exhausting we have to do it… And what shall we say, it’s just WOW. Well, the beach in Esperance itself isn’t the most beautiful one due to all the seaweed, but the town is lovely.

And the pristine beaches along the great ocean drive (not to be mixed up with the great ocean road) are lining up like pearls on a string, one more stunning then the one before. We’ve started the drive from the end with Eleven Mile Beach, one of our favorites…

Nine Mile Beach isn’t as beautiful, but the rock formations are worth a closer look…

Honestly, we can’t understand, why we haven’t heard about this beaches before and the comparison with the ones along the famous Great Ocean Road is just ridicolous. Unluckily, Markus dropped my camera and boom, it’s gone, not working anymore…grrr…. Imaging, travelling along some of the most beautiful beaches you’ve ever seen and being left with a mobile phone only to bann it on a photo, a nightmare. Therefore, he decided to abadon me at Observatory Point and drive into town to organise a new one. After I’ve spent an hour to watch the ocean he returned; needless to say, without camera…

The only let’s say „crowded“ beach along this stretch is Twilight Beach.

After the busy but monitord Twilight Beach Fourth Beach is more lonely, loved it.

Next day is the day we’re going to visit this famous Lucky Bay. To be honest I’m a bit hesiting, usually I’m not a big fan of things everyone else likes. Well, instead of the expected Kangaroos we see some Emus along the road.

At the camp ground next to Lucky Bay are mainly Australians camping. No wonder, you must book it months in advance in order to get a camp site. We’ve talked to some campers who checked the booking portal on a daily basis six months ago until their desired dates were open for bookings… OK, we admit Lucky Bay is beautiful, even without the much promoted Kangaroos.

Unfortunately they allow vehicles at the beach (not unusual in Australia) which leads to traffic, pollution, diesel smells, and instead of the expected soft and powdry sand you’ll find a highway like stone hard path at the top of the beach…

Even just next door we’ve found some must nicer bays, well maybe not Rossiter Bay which is meter deep covered in seaweed…

But look a this amazing rock formations at Whistling Rock, the sound is just amazing.

After a bit of climbing over rocks suddenly the view over the stunning white Thistle Cove opened up.

Our personal favorite and definitly one if the most beautiful beaches we’ve ever seen world wide is Hellfire Bay. Beautiful enough that we couldn’t resist and had to go for a swim in the freezing ocean. My personal highlight of the day was Markus jumping into the chilly waves like a young Roo, never experianced that before….

The short walk to Little Hellfire is sweaty but well worth it with many flowers blooming at this time of the year.

And yes, needless to say, it’s just wow, nothing else will suffice.

Cape le grand Beach is nothing special, to much seaweed there and officially used as a road, grrr….

The coast here around Esperance is just amazingly beautiful and we’re a bit sad to leave. We’ll be back but for now it’s bye bye and time to travel on towards Hopetoun (no, not a spelling mistake) and the Fitzgerald River National Park.

The beaches around Esperance are so stunningly beautiful we’re a bit said to leave, but luckily the weather’s playing games and it starts to rain, as soon as we’re off so it’s ok to leave.

Funny enough there is some kind of street art to be found along the way, there even exists a Gate Art Trail.

OK, I admit the dark clouds hanging low looked a bit scary, but Culham Beach  just before the park entrance was still magic.

Culham Inlet is wetland and a pardise for birders.

At beautiful short walk provids a stunning view over the bay and shows us some funny flowers.

West Mileys Beach finally provides the softest sand one could expect

And at Hammersly we finally found one of our beloved quiet bush camps. But due to the fire risk and the harsh windy weather camp fires are forbidden and Markus is cooking our dinner on gas barbeques.

Our favorite Beach in Fitzroy NP is defenitly West Beach. A narrow path along the coast offers stunning views over some funny rock formations.

Mileys Beach

Yea, finally blue sky and a delicious lunch with Markus much loved bacon sandwiches with a great view at Four Mile Beach.

After lunch we’re off again.  To explore the western part of the park we unfortunately have to leave the park and reenter from west. Should take us about two hours. Well, at this point we didn’t know yet, that the gravel road there was pretty corrugated, a proper Wellblech, and that Markus was going to crash the cupboard where the much useless Microwave was located, ah ja, underneath is  the dishesware stored…

In the early morning we’re greeted with some drizzling. Since we were to lazy to setup our inside table and the camp ground didn’t provide any shelter we decided to use the picknick facilities at the Point Ann view point.

Right on the path were some Kangaroos waiting for us, they were drinkimg at the picknick tables and stayed for quiet some time, gorgeous.

During our short walk the rain increased and we returend to our campervan wet to the panties, iiii.

Well, nothing to bad, a quick change of cloths and at the same time a quick change of the weather and off we drive over the red road into the blue sky.

Other campers at the campground ensured us that the drive out of the park towards Bremer Bay is much smother than the one in, great thing. Rumpel, rumpel, crash and the fridge door swings open, water bottles, wine bottle, beer bottles, everything splashes out, grrr. Luckily no broken glass, but the fridge is suddenly off. Mening, hasn’t any power anymore, same for all the electricity, sh.., it’s sunday and on monday’s Labour Day nd also everything closed. OK, we drive on towards Bremer Bay to try our chances in finding a mechanic, but Murphy kicked in and the road towards Bremer Bay was closed half way, sh… Nothing to do but leave Bremer Bay aside and head straight towards Albany, the next bigger town. Suddenly I spotted an open car part dealer, trying our chances we entered and asked, whether they also offer mechanic services, well the don’t. But they’ve got a „lovely Scott“ employed who obviousely is a hobby mechanic and friendly enough to have a look at our vehicle and boom, problem solved, fridge is cooling again, our beers and steakes safed and our personal holy person will for all times be this „lovely Scott“. 

Well, calling Murphy again, our nightmare wasn’t over yet, we had to ask at three different camp grounds in order to find a camp site. At the third I used my Hundeblick throw a car break down in and half begged, all this got us the very last available camp site on a camp ground from hell, I only mention water play park, childrens playground, scooter, dog poo, you name it. I swear, THESE beers at the closeby beach safed us.

Noch drü Täg Staubstrosse und Bushcamps ohni Duschi im Fitzroy NP hät sich die uf üserem riesige, unpersönliche, luute, Kinderspielplatzlärmcamping trotz allem himmlisch agfühlt. Aber jetzt gönnemer üs zerscht en gmüetliche Stadtbummel und es nöd sälb kochts Miggagässe im härzige Kolonialstädtli Albany.

Scho bim Inefahre werdemer vo traumhaft schön gmachte Tiergraffities begrüesst.

De kurze Abstecher zum „The Gap“ und de „Natural Bridge“ isch sehr idrücklich.

Sodeli, fertig mit Stadt und Tourihighlights, es goht wieder uf d’Gravel Road und in West Cape Howe NP.

Das 420 Seelen Dorf Denmark hat ein für uns komplett überraschend lebendiges Zentrum mit einer ganz hübschen Shoppingarkade mit vielen Cafes und einem Iced Coffee to die for…

Das spannendste Gebäude im Ort ist für uns aber tatsächlich der Supermarkt mit seinen wunderschönen Wandmalereien.

Ziel ist eigentlich der Campground bei Parrys Beach, aber die Fahrt entlang dem Ocean Beach Drive, via McGeary Rock, über Black Hole und Sinker Bay ist schon ein Highlight für sich.

Die meisten Leute kommen allerdings wohl wegen der Greens Pool in diese Gegend. Der puderzucker weisse feinsandige Beach und die geschützte Bucht mit ihrem türkisklarem Wasser sind aber auch traumhaft schön und ziehen halt auch Leute an. Spaziert man auch 100 Meter, hat man schon wieder alles für sich.

Ganz egal, aus welcher Perspektive ich das Foto knipse, es wird dem Ort einfach nicht gerecht, versucht habe ich es trotzdem….

Eher unspektakulär ist zu dieser Jahreszeit der Wasserfall am Waterfall Beach.

Kaum 3 km entfernt vom beliebten Greens Pool liegt einsam und verlassen die Madfish Bay. Wunderschön, aber mit der gegeneinanderlaufenden Strömung vermutlich tückisch.

Eigentlich ist es hier viel zu schön, um weiterzufahren. Aber wir wollen gerne gegen 5 auf dem Campingplatz sein, damit wir Zeit für ein gemütliches Sundowner Bierchen haben und dann noch im Hellen kochen und Essen können, um 7 ist es stockfinster. Wir haben zum Glück nur noch wenige Kilometer Fahrt vor uns, aber Google Maps ist nicht gerade DIE grosse Hilfe, grins…

Morgen müssen wir uns leider von der traumhaft schönen Südküste verabschieden.

Wäääh, Fahrtag. Since the South was so beautiful we hesitated to leave, spent more time there and are now heading directly towards Bunbury, leave out the originaly planed wineries at Margret River. To break up the long drive we make a quick stop at the Valley of Giants. But to be honest we weren’t all that impressed by this huge gum trees. Guess the rain forests we’ve seen in other places just offered more variety. Therefore, we waived the tree top walk in order to a convenient stroll trough the forrest.

The drive through the forrest with its winding roads feels like it’s taking ages. A quick break

And finally we arrive at our beautiful campground at the Peppermint Cove Beach.

I admit Bunbury is nothing one needs to see, hardly any nice buildings or friendly looking cafes. We’re only here cuz I was doing some research regarding Street Art inPerth and accidentially stumbled over some pieces in Bunbury, took us half a day to see all of the, but afterwards we’re off to Freemantle.

The cute guys on the power stations are just adorable….

Oh wow, we’ve two nights left only before leaving Australia, meaning one full day. Our timing seems perfekt, we’re heading straight towards Fremantle, have the afternoon to relax and the next full day to explore this ancient colonial town; hopefully it’s nicer than Bunbury… Or, we stroll through Fremantle this afternoon and squise in a visit to Rottnest island… So much for our plans, let’s wait. Cuz first of all, the straight drive isn’t all that straight, the coast along Peel Inlet is just to bizarre not to stop from time to time.

Endlich schaffen wir es mal schön früh und vor 5 auf den Camping, aaaaber, wir können nur eine Nacht bleiben, die zweite ist ausgebucht. Eine Alternative in der Nähe gibt es keine, alles voll, dabei war doch eben erst das lange Labour Day weekend. Wir vertrödeln ganze zwei Stunden, bis wir knapp 2 Fahrstunden weiter und rund 50 km östlich von Perth was reservieren können, somit ist Rottnest Island morgen gestorben, grrrrr. Egal, jetzt hömmer üs zerscht mol es Bierli verdient! Ab auf Fremantles Esplanade.

Let’s start the day in Fremantle with a great not self cooked brekki.

Phu, what a lovely town with so many beautiful old colonial buildings. Why is noone building balconies like these anymore? It’s a shame?

Seeing this market I would have loved to have more space in my lagguage…

These pieces of street art took us by surprise, aren’t they stunning?

Oh man, I swear, I was swearing like a Bierwagenkutscher when we learnt, we can’t stay in Fremantle because all camp grounds were full and we had to search something rather far away. Well, far for us, certainly not for Australian measures. But when we arrived at  Lake Leschenaultia we were so positively surprised to find a lovely, well we adore this dusty, red sanded bush camps, camp ground and a lake where we could even hike around, all perfect!

Sodeli, üsere letschte Tag isch scho do, leider…. Jetzt heissts, üsi Motzlise abgeh, Gepäck am Flughafe ilagere, nomol für es paar Stund id Stadt und em 10i am Obet gohts uf fe Flüger…

Some migth say, three hours is nothing, we say, „take the challenge“, it’s enough time to stroll a last time through Perth, have a glass of sparkling wine, see a last graffity, adore some beautiful buildings, take a ferry trip to Perth South Beach, see the sky line, have a last pie, enjoy a last beer and even a last peek at my beloved Adnate Mural. OK, we might be a bit crazy, but we’ve enjoyed every minute in Australia to the last and even caught our flight.

Bye bye Australia, it has been a wundervoll time again, we’ll be back❤️